Welcome to the Chandlery, Boat Accessories Product Reviews & Videos section
Posted on | January 16, 2010 | No Comments
Hello everyone,
Welcome to our product review/tips and tricks section, where we will review and occasionally video some of our boat accessories and chandlery products, showing them in use and hopefully also give you some helpful tips along the way.
The Aquapart team.
How to remove and refit a Volvo Penta 290 Sterndrive and Bellows
Posted on | March 31, 2010 | No Comments
Removal / Re-fitting and replacement of Volvo Penta 290 sterndrive leg, bellows and water pickup pipe etc.
Like most Sterndrives the Volvo Penta 290 drive is a heavy unit and care must be taken to ensure that it is properly supported and that the correct tools are used during all service procedures. Make sure you have a competent and strong assistant, and that you are both wearing the correct footwear and clothing etc.
Initially the drive should be in the vertical (operational) position and the steering pivot removed from the helmet (Pos'n 1), there are usually 2 socket head screws holding it down, these should be removed from the pivot pin and the pin removed either by jiggling it from side to side using two pins or screwdrivers, or if it is really stuck the two smaller tapped holes can be used to jack the insert out by using the long stainless screws which secure the gear shift selector cover (Pos'n 2).
After removing the shift cover remove the small split pin which holds the shift cable to the mechanism (Pos'n 3) and then un-clamp the shift cable locking plate on the forward end of the intermediate housing ( Pos'n 4)
Trim the leg up as far as possible and unclamp the universal joint bellows where the clamp goes around the upper drive unit (Pos'n 5) then unclamp the exhaust bellows from the intermediate housing (Pos'n 6) , Undo the hose clamp that secures the water pickup pipe to the pickup helmet (Pos'n 7) and in the case of power trim models (MAKING SURE THE DRIVE IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED IN THE TILTED POSITION) Remove the clevis pins which hold the trim rams to the “H” frame, (retained by small split pins) it is usually possible to then lower the drive back to an upright position using the power trim but
PLEASE ENSURE THAT ALL HANDS AND BODY PARTS ARE AWAY FROM THE DRIVE DURING THIS.
volvo penta 290 Sterndrive
After the drive has returned to the vertical position make sure it is well supported under the Skeg,
Remove the two vertical lock screws (Stainless Allen cap head) that retain the horizontal hanging pins where they pass through the transom shield, the hanging pins can then be withdrawn using a piece of threaded rod and a piece of tube or similar.
It is sometimes possible to drive the pins in towards the bellows however -
IF THEY ARE TIGHT YOU WILL SWELL THEM A FEW THOUSANDS OF AN INCH AND THEY WILL GET STUCK IN THE HOLE.
So it is preferable to draw them outwards if possible.
The Drive should then be free to pull away from the boat ensuring that all hoses,cables and bellows detach themselves and ensure the shift cable passes freely through the hole in the leg.
Lift the drive away from the boat and store it safely.
The drive and exhaust Bellows can then be removed from the transom shield and the water pickup pipe removed and replaced if needed, the inner end of this has a “top hat” and it must be inserted through the shield from the inside by removing the steel inner Pickup pipe / Oil cooler/ Seacock (whichever is fitted)
On drives prior to the 290 the water pickup pipes usually have a hose clip on either end and can be removed from within the transom shield area.
Replacement is pretty much the reverse procedure, however care should be taken to ensure that all bellows and hose location diameters are cleaned and prepared correctly and all pins are cleaned using fine emery cloth if needed.
The drive should be offered up to the shield and supported on wooden blocks with an assistant holding it steady, the shift cable should be inserted through the hole in the intermediate housing.
Clip screw positions when Fitting Volvo Penta bellows
Hang the exhaust bellows clamp over the neck on the intermediate housing lift the drive into position and insert the universal joint over the intermediate shaft indexing it around to align the splines, if necessary Install the hanging pins with some light waterproof grease whilst aligning the retaining bolt grooves in each pin.
Work the bellows into place with the clamp screws in positions where they will not rub or chafe on other items (move the drive fully from side to side to ascertain this)
Pull the steering helmet back over the upper gearbox and refit the pin into the bush (apply some waterproof grease)
Secure the shift cable clamp and connect the shift cable to the actuating mechanism,
Refit the trim ram anchor pins and split pins, (take care if the leg is raised that it is fully supported until the rams are properly attached to avoid physical damage).
Replace the shift mechanism cover.
NOTE-
TO ONLY REPLACE THE DRIVE BELLOWS IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE WHOLE LEG, ONLY THE TOP GEARBOX NEED BE REMOVED HOWEVER WE RECOMMEND BUYING A WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR THIS
De-Winterizing Your Boat
Posted on | March 18, 2010 | No Comments
Spring is finally here, and its time to peel off those covers and start getting the boat ready for recommissioning. We've put together a few simple tips to help you de-winterize your pride and joy after a long, hard winter. If you did winterize your boat, thats great news, because you saved yourself some spring prep time and possible headaches now, which means the road between your boat and the water is shorter! Although it is always best to winterize a boat properly before putting it into storage, if you didn't, don't worry. You can perform those jobs now ready for re-launch. Here's how:
Have Your Manufacturer's Manual Handy
If you have a copy, great. If you don't, it would be a good idea to get one. A manual will make your life easier, in the long run, it will help you to find out which oils and lubes you need, capacity needed, and of course the complete service schedule.
We have the Clymer Manuals for sale, which cover both your engine and sterndrive, and they are a great investment.
De-winterizing Your Engine
The engine is the most important bit of your boat, and since it will most like take the greatest amount of time and be the messiest, (no point in cleaning the bilges then covering them in oil again!) start here.
If you didn't change the oil at the end of last season, do so now. After running your boat all summer, it's likely that water, acids and other byproducts have built up. It's important to change the oil to prevent corrosion and excessive wear which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel economy or engine failure. At the same time you change the oil, be sure to change the oil filter. Change the oil in gearbox or the sterndrive's lower unit as well.
Next, flush the cooling system, run the engine on flush muffs, if you have a closed cooling sysytem replace the antifreeze with a 50/50 ratio of water to coolant.
Assuming you removed your batteries at the end of the season, replace them and perform a thorough engine test.
Inspect the Canvas & Vinyl
Check your bimini top, seats, covers, and other vinyl and canvas items for tears, mildew and dirt. Repairs tears and holes, and then clean with the proper cleaner for canvas and vinyl.
The Starbrite Boat cover cleaner is great for this job, as it is not to astringent, but it gets the mould and green stuff out, quickly and easily. Follow this up with a re-waterproofing treatment, and you should get great service out of your covers all season.
Inspect the Hull
Carefully inspect the hull for blisters or other chips and cracks as well as for chalky residue. If you find blisters, repair them. If the boat's hull is chalky, it could indicate oxidation. Determine the level of oxidation, and then if needs be get to work either with a polisher or by hand with a rubbing compound, followed by a good quality polish, then final burst of elbow grease to wax the hull, giving it that much needed protection for the season ahead.
Polish the Metal and Teak
Known as brightwork, metal and teak enhance the look of your boat. If it's dull, your boat will not have the same visual appeal as it might otherwise have. Also, prolonged neglect of metal and teak can result in pitting and eventually compromise the integrity of the materials and their intended use. To protect the metal, use metal polisher like Starbrite chrome & stainless polish.
Replace and Test all Electronics
If you removed the electronics bring all them all back on board and do a thorough test to be sure they are working properly. Test the radio, GPS, compass, sounder, and any other marine electricals like your navigation lights, interior lights and if water systems etc..
Clean the Interior
Whether you have an open deck or cabin with full galley, clean the area thoroughly to remove dirt and debris.
With all these jobs done, you should be ready to get back into the water as soon as you can!
Hopefully, this year will see some better weather, so we can all enjoy the fruits of our re-commissioning labour.
Have a happy & safe season.
Tags: boat cleaner > boat covers > De-winterizing > hull polish > Mercruiser > mercruiser coolant > rust stain remover > starbrite boat polish > sterndrive > vovlo penta
Mercruiser V6 Manifold problems and Conversion kits
Posted on | January 20, 2010 | No Comments
From approx 1997-2001 Mercruiser fitted a beautiful one piece exhaust manifold to their V6 marine engines, unfortunately many of them started to corrode internally early on, especially on salt water engines, giving cause to the usual manifold related problems, ie- water in the oil, rough running etc.
The problem was probably caused by "core shift" during the casting process, where the sand or foam core in the casting moves slightly during the casting process and causes the internal walls to be thinner on one side than the other and in some cases very thin, hence the early corrosion problems.
This was probably caused by the intricate nature of the one peice casting compared to the earlier (and current) two piece type.
If you have these manifolds fitted to your boat we recommend that you replace them immediately with the two piece type as shown below
For further Information click here Mercruiser V6 Manifolds or call us at the number on the header
Plastimo Reviews
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
- Plastimo are a French company and with over 6000 products are one of the largest Marine and boat accessory or chandlery suppliers in Europe, they have been manufacturing boating equipment for over 40 years and have seven subsidiaries in Europe and one in the USA, their catalogue is printed in eight languages and they manufacture approximately fifty percent of their products in their french factory.
Plastimo employ over 300 employees and have 12 research and development staff, they have 70 salesmen in europe and have a presence in over 104 countries, represented by over 7000 dealers. - Please click the header above to find Plastimo products in our store
Starbrite Canvas waterproofing video
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
Click here for Starbrite Canvas waterproofing
How to Measure boat steering cables
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
Buy boat steering cables here
Hydraulic Boat Steering and Upgrading from Mechanical type
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
Video from Teleflex on upgrading from mechanical to hydraulic steering
Buy Hydraulic steering here
Turboflame Windproof lighter
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
The Turboflame windproof lighter is a great tool to have aboard a boat, it will seal the end of a cut rope, light the cooker (or your fag) and perform loads of amazing feats of heat (are there such things), click the link below the video to find them on our site.
Click for
How to Identify and measure boat steering and Control Cables,
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
Heres a neat little video from Teleflex about identifying and measuring your boat's control cables
click this link for boat steering and controls
Mercruiser & Volvo Penta Exhaust Manifolds, How to remove and refit them
Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments
Here is a quick video on the basics of how to remove your Mercruiser, Volvo Penta, OMC or other Marine Engine Exhaust Manifolds, obviously the refitting is just a reverse of this process. These manifolds and risers are quite heavy so make sure you have the correct tools and clothing (read footwear, NO FLIP-FLOPS) and have a good understanding of workshop practices.
click here for aftermarket Mercruiser Manifolds
Tags: exhaust > fitting > instructions > manifolds > Mercruiser > omc > removing > video > Volvo Penta